DiA Tiny Whing V2 FT 2S 40
My new version of Tiny Whing designed to be built on FliteTest 5mm water resistant foam board. Much easier and faster to build, no carbon fibre spars needed.
I also made it a 2S version. So here will be a part list for the 2S build. If you want to build 1S just use 1S ESC and 19000kv version of the motor.
Wingspan: 40cm
AUW: 40g (with two 250mAh 1S HV batteries)
CG calculated by using Flying wing CG calculator
Parts needed:
- FliteTest 5mm foam board
- 0.8mm piano wire or such for servo links
- 2pcs 1.7g servos
- 2.4G 8CH D8 Mini FrSky Receiver With PWM Output
- VGOOD 6A 2S 32-Bit Brushless ESC With 1.5A SBEC for Fixed Wing RC Airplane
- Happymodel SE0802 1-2S 16000KV Brushless Motor
- Caddix Beetle AIO FPV camera
- 65mm propellers
Tools needed:
- Very sharp knife
- Office rubber band
- 3D printer 😀
- E6000 glue for link locks
- Hot glue gun
Get cutting template from Thingiverse.com/thing:3655383/files, it’s in two A4 part. There’s also a dimension sheet to draw cutting lines straight onto the board.
Building instructions
Cutting the foam board
Draw the cutting lines or use a template and cut the outer lines through. Mark a CG point at the bottom. It’s 76mm from the nose tip.
Cut bending line for the winglets through the top paper. Leave bottom paper uncut for bending. Cut 45-degree chamfers, so you can bend the winglet into the 90-degree angle.
Bend and glue winglets with hot glue.
Cut ailerons through the bottom paper. Leave top paper uncut for hinges. Cut using some ruler. The line should be super straight to make hinges to work nicely. Cut 45-degree chamfers on the bottom, inner and outer edges.
Chamfer leading edges of the wing and winglets. 45-degree on top and bottom.
Printed parts
Get horn and motor mount from Thingiverse.com/thing:3655383/files. Parts are small but can be printed without hassle on all printers. Use 0.1-0.2mm layers and your preferred hard filament, like PLA, PETG, ABS or such.
Assembly
I’m reusing photos from the first version. So don’t be confused.
Lay the wing flat on the table. Insert servos into the slots use hot glue to lock them in. Glue a horn into the slot on the aileron.
Cut the piano wire to two 24mm long pieces. Make an L angle on one side 4mm from the tip. Insert it into the servo’s horn. Make sure that the aileron is on the same line with the wing and mark with the marker bending point on the wire.
Bend the other side of the link and insert it to both horns. Then lock it with a drop of the E6000 glue. You can use also hot glue. But E6000 remains soft and removes any loose-fittings.
Attach the motor onto the mount and glue mount in its place on the back of the wing. The bottom part of the mount will go inside the foam, so make a cut there for it.
Glue an ESC and the receiver near the motor. You can scrape a slot in the foam for them if you want.
Improvise the mounting of the fpv AIO camera with the vtx. You can glue foam pieces under the camera and the motor mounts to strengthen them.
The last part is to find a place for the 2S battery of your choice. You can make an adapter to use two 1S lipos. Put wing’s CG on your fingers and move the battery to find a perfect balance. Punch the through holes for the rubber. Cut the rubber band. Put it through the holes and tie tight.
The result should be like this:
Transmitter settings
Here the preferences that suites me:
- 30% expo on Roll and Pitch
- 60% weight for ailerons and elevon